Modifications to a propagation model for the combinded refractiondiffraction of stokes waves; shallow water, large angle and breaking wave effects
Abstract
This report discusses several features of the combined refractiondiffraction model for Stokes waves (developed by Kirby, 1983) which limit its applicability in shallow water. Chapter 2 discusses a proposed dispersion relation for waves in arbitrary water depth, which provides a smooth patch between the lowest order Stokes dispersion relation and an approximate dispersion relation for shallow water, given originally by Hedges (1976). Chapter 3 extends the largeangle approximation of Kirby (1983) to the case of waves on currents, in order to allow for the calculation of waves which are refracted or diffracted to angles which deviate significantly from an initially preferred direction of propagation, due to the combined effect of varying depth and current. Finally, Chapter 4 provides some calculations of wave fields around surfacepiercing islands, in order to illustrate the effect of wave breaking and the use of a thinfilm approximation for dry areas in the model.
 Publication:

NASA STI/Recon Technical Report N
 Pub Date:
 January 1985
 Bibcode:
 1985STIN...8525768K
 Keywords:

 Shallow Water;
 Stokes Law Of Radiation;
 Wave Dispersion;
 Waveforms;
 Diffraction;
 Dynamic Models;
 Refraction;
 Revisions;
 Water Waves;
 Wave Propagation;
 Fluid Mechanics and Heat Transfer