Mechanisms of sediment transport to shoreline salients onshore of fringing coral reefs

Shoreline salients, often extending several hundred metres seaward relative to the adjacent shoreline, are a common morphological feature found in the lee of many fringing coral reefs globally. However, the physical mechanisms that govern the formation and equilibrium dynamics of these salients remains poorly understood. A recent field experiment in NW Australia at Ningaloo Reef examined the mechanism of sediment delivery to a salient that extends 700 m seaward onshore of a 4 km long fringing reef that sits 2 km offshore. The experimental array consisted of wave, water level, and velocity measurements at >20 sites from 20 m depth offshore of the reef, the reef crest, and numerous sites throughout the 3 m depth lagoon shoreward of the reef. Two sites within the lagoon, one each side of the salient, also measured the migration of 0.5 m wavelength, 0.1 m high sand ripples using horizontal and vertically mounted echo sounders. Consistent with existing theory, mean (wave-averaged) flows in the lagoon shoreward of the reef and along the shoreline were divergent up to 0.2 m/s, corresponding to the circulation pattern resulting from wave breaking induced setup on the reef and associated mass flux into the lagoon, and seaward return flow through two lateral channels. These divergent alongshore mean flows are inconsistent the accreted shoreline morphology. However, the two sites that measured ripple properties and migration showed consistent migration in the local (salient following) onshore direction up to 2 m/day (mean 0.14 m/day across the two sites) resulting in onshore sediment fluxes as large as 200 kg/m/day (mean 10.1 kg/m/day) assuming ripple migration equates to net bedload transport. Despite the considerable infragravity energy within the lagoon ( 50% of the energy spectrum) the 0.5 m wavelength ripples were suborbital based on the orbital diameter of the 0.2-0.5 m high short waves which enter the lagoon via refraction through the lateral channels and incomplete dissipation over the reef. These preliminary results indicate that onshore ripple migration of biogenic sediment generated by the coral reef from short waves within the lagoon is the primary source of sediment to the salient. Additional analyses will focus on the hydrodynamic mechanisms responsible for the variable rate of migration.