Measuring Bathymetry, Runup, and Beach Volume Change during Storms: New Methodology Quantifies Substantial Changes in Cross-Shore Sediment Flux

Accurate predictions of beach change during storms are contingent upon a correct understanding of wave-driven sediment exchange between the beach and nearshore during high energy conditions. Conventional storm data sets use “pre” (often weeks to months prior) and “post” (often many days after the storm in calm conditions) collections of beach topography and nearshore bathymetry to characterize the effects of the storm. These data have led to a common theory for wave-driven event response of the nearshore system, wherein bars and shorelines are smoothed and straightened by strong alongshore currents into two-dimensional, linear forms. Post-storm, the shoreline accretes, bars migrate onshore, and three-dimensional shapes begin to build as low-energy swell returns. Unfortunately, these approaches have left us with a knowledge gap of the extent and timing of erosion and accretion during storms, arguably the most important information both for scientists trying to model storm damage or inundation, and homeowners trying to manage their properties. This work presents the first spatially extensive (10 km alongshore) and temporally high-resolution (dt = 12 hours) quantitative data set of beach volume and nearshore bathymetry evolution during a Nor’easter on North Carolina’s Outer Banks. During the Nor’easter, significant wave height peaked at 3.4 m, and was greater than 2 m for 37 hours, as measured by the Duck FRF 8 m array. Data were collected using CLARIS: Coastal Lidar and Radar Imaging System, a mobile system that couples simultaneous observations of beach topography from a Riegl laser scanner and nearshore bathymetry (out to ~1 km offshore) from X-Band radar-derived celerity measurements (BASIR). The merging of foreshore lidar elevations with 6-min averages of radar-derived swash runup also enables mapping of maximum-runup elevations alongshore during the surveys. Results show that during the storm, neither the shoreline nor nearshore bathymetry returned to a linear system, as shoreline megacusps/embayments and nearshore shore-oblique bars/troughs both persisted and remained aligned throughout the storm. Analysis of beach volume change above the MHW line showed that all of the erosion occurred during the first 24 hours of the storm, as the 8-m significant wave height grew from 1 to 3.5 m at the peak of the storm and wave period increased from 6 to 14 s. In the 12 hours immediately following the storm peak, as long-period swell fell only 1 m, at least 50% of the eroded upper-beach volume returned along the entire study site, with 100% and greater returning along half the study site. This erosion and accretion would be completely unobserved using traditional pre- and post-storm data sets. Maximum runup varied by as much as 2 m alongshore, showing a weak positive correlation with foreshore slope. Maximum runup is the sum of regional tide and surge (pressure and wind-driven) water levels as well as localized wave-driven setup and swash, and thus may have complex alongshore variations where irregular nearshore bathymetry significantly influences shoreline wave-setup.