Remote Sensing Characteristics of Wave Breaking Rollers

The wave roller has a primary influence on the balances of mass and momentum in the surf zone (e.g. Svendsen, 1984; Dally and Brown, 1995; Ruessink et al., 2001). In addition, the roller area and its angle of inclination on the wave front are important quantities governing the dissipation rates in breaking waves (e.g Madsen et al., 1997). Yet, there have been very few measurements published of individual breaking wave roller geometries in shallow water. A number of investigators have focused on observations of the initial jet-like motion at the onset of breaking before the establishment of the wave roller (e.g. Basco, 1985; Jansen, 1986), while Govender et al. (2002) provide observations of wave roller vertical cross-sections and angles of inclination for a pair of laboratory wave conditions. Nonetheless, presently very little is known about the growth, evolution, and decay of this aerated region of white water as it propagates through the surf zone; mostly due to the inherent difficulties in making the relevant observations. The present work is focused on analyzing observations of the time and space scales of individual shallow water breaking wave rollers as derived from remote sensing systems. Using a high-resolution video system in a large-scale laboratory facility, we have obtained detailed measurements of the growth and evolution of the wave breaking roller. In addition, by synchronizing the remote video with in-situ wave gages, we are able to directly relate the video intensity signal to the underlying wave shape. Results indicate that the horizontal length scale of breaking wave rollers differs significantly from the previous observations of Duncan (1981), which has been a traditional basis for roller model parameterizations. The overall approach to the video analysis is new in the sense that we concentrate on individual breaking waves, as opposed to the more commonly used time-exposure technique. In addition, a new parameter of interest, denoted Imax, is introduced based on the envelope of the intensity signal. The parameter is shown to be much less sensitive to trailing wave breaking foam, which typically corrupts time-exposure data. In the present work this parameter is shown to provide high-resolution information regarding the onset of wave breaking and the spatial evolution of the wave roller. Ongoing work will attempt to relate the shoreward transformation of the intensity maximum and the geometric characteristics of the wave roller to the spatial distribution of wave breaking dissipation. Finally, we will compare wave breaking characteristics as imaged by two separate remote sensors. Synoptic images from both video and microwave radar remote sensors were obtained in September of 2005 at Duck, NC. This combination of the two observing systems will allow direct quantitative comparisons between the two imaging mechanisms and lead to a better understanding of the strengths and weaknesses of both for nearshore research and observational remote sensing.