Contrasting rip current circulations

Rip-current circulations are thought to have an important effect on sediment transport and thereby impact the beach evolution or in some cases even dune erosion during extreme events (Thornton et al, 2006). Also, given their nature of being narrow confined offshore directed flows they are a potential danger to swimmers whom can be taken involuntarily offshore by the rip-current jet. By contrasting rip-current circulations observed on two different beaches, viz. Monterey and Torrey Pines, the importance of incident wave conditions, local and remote bathymetry, tidal elevation on the resulting rip-current circulations are being assessed. Special attention is given to wave-current interaction induced phenomena, such as wave focussing/defocussing and the onset of wave breaking. ref: Thornton, E.B., A.H. Sallenger, and J.H. MacMahan, Rip Currents, Cuspate Shorelines and Eroding Dunes, J. Geophys. Res., sub judice, 2006.