Surf physics
Abstract
Just what is happening when a surfer taps into the energy of a breaking wave and rides to shore? It's sport, it's art, it's skill, stamina, and drama. It is also physics — hydrodynamics, wave propagation, kinematics, and dynamics.
- Publication:
-
The Physics Teacher
- Pub Date:
- May 2001
- DOI:
- 10.1119/1.1375464
- Bibcode:
- 2001PhTea..39..272E
- Keywords:
-
- 01.40.Gm;
- 46.40.Cd;
- Mechanical wave propagation